Milford Sound · Southland, South Island, New Zealand
Oceania
New Zealand Travel Guide
Two islands, three months of driving, and an honest account of how long it all actually takes.
A morning in Rotorua feels nothing like an afternoon on the beaches of Abel Tasman, which feels nothing like a week driving through Fiordland. The ground steams in the middle of a city built on an active geothermal field. On the West Coast, glaciers come down through temperate rainforest almost to the sea. Māori is an official language here, and the treaty the country was founded on is still actively argued over. No two days in New Zealand feel like the same country.
Kevin and Melina have personally traveled New Zealand, spending three months driving both islands from the very south of the Catlins to the extreme north of the Northland region. Every itinerary and recommendation on this page comes from traveling within those regions. This guide covers where to go, how long to spend, what to know before you arrive, and how to navigate New Zealand once you are there.
New Zealand at a glance
Language
English, Te reo Māori, and sign language
Capital City
Wellington
Currency
New Zealand Dollar
Budget Range
$$$
Best time to visit
December to March is the summer season in New Zealand and the most popular time to visit. However, the shoulder seasons of fall and spring are also amazing times to visit, with more variable weather.
Typical trip length
With nine days, you can visit one of the two islands. Sixteen days allows you to visit both islands. Anything under a week is hard to justify, especially with long flight times to the country.
US, Canadian, UK, EU and most other visa-waiver passport holders need an NZeTA requested before travel, valid for two years, plus the NZD 100 International Visitor Levy. Australian citizens are exempt from both. Allow 72 hours for processing and check requirements for your passport before booking.
Quick Resources to Plan Your Trip to New Zealand
Explore by region
Regions of New Zealand
North Island
Where nearly every trip begins. A harbor city, a subtropical coastline running north to Cape Reinga, and the peninsula Aucklanders escape to on weekends.
Entry point for most trips
Geothermal country. Steaming lakes and mud pools, the cultural center of Māori New Zealand, and the trailhead for the best day hike in the country.
~3 hr drive from Auckland
The capital, wedged between a harbor and a ring of hills. The national museum, the country's best coffee, and the ferry terminal that connects the two islands.
~5 hr drive from Taupo
South Island
Where the ferry lands. Sauvignon blanc country and golden beaches at the top, then the wettest, wildest coastline in the country running south to the glaciers.
Ferry from Wellington to Picton
The alpine spine. Adventure sports in Queenstown, a quieter lake at Wanaka, and the road east past Aoraki Mount Cook and Lake Tekapo to Christchurch.
~6 hr drive Christchurch to Queenstown
The bottom of the country. Milford Sound at the end of one of the world's great mountain roads, and a southern coast of sea lions, waterfalls and almost nobody.
~2 hr drive from Queenstown to Te Anau
Where to go
Featured destinations
Fiordland National Park
The single most photographed place in New Zealand, and the drive in matters as much as the fiord itself. Mirror Lakes, the Homer Tunnel, and a glacial valley on the far side, all before you reach the water. Worth spending a few days to discover more than the famous Milford Sound.
Queenstown
The adventure capital of the world and a destination for both the adrenaline junky and the one who needs a quiet spa vacation. Bungy, jet boats, lake views, a wine region, hiking, hot springs and more. A town that really has something for every type of traveler.
Rotorua
Geothermal parks, hot springs, and the best place in the country to learn about Maori history and culture directly from the communities. You'll find landscapes that take you to another planet.
Abel Tasman National Park
An unexpected tropical paradise of golden beaches, clear water, and a coastal hiking path that you can do just one way and return via water taxi. It's one of the sunniest corners of New Zealand.
Plan your trip
Itineraries
Every itinerary below was built from personal travel. Kevin and Melina have driven each of these routes themselves, from the Bay of Islands down to the Catlins. Use the region sections to find your destination, or reach out if you need help building a full trip.
reach out to us →Auckland, Northland and the Coromandel
Wellington
Nelson, Marlborough and the West Coast
Queenstown, Wanaka and Canterbury
Before you book
Planning your trip
Best time to visit
New Zealand has four seasons and they run opposite to the northern hemisphere. December through February is summer with long daylight hours, the warmest water, every hiking track open, and the highest prices. This is when New Zealanders take their own holidays, so book accommodation and the Cook Strait ferry well ahead. If you are looking to do as many hikes as possible, this is the time to visit.
March through May is a great shoulder season window. The weather is still stable but there are fewer visitors because local schools are back in session. The fall weather means that the leaves change color during this time of year. Similarly, September through November is the spring season and when the flowers start to bloom. If you want to discover the lupin fields of the South Island, this would be the time period to visit.
Winter, June through August, is ski season in Queenstown and the Southern Alps. It is a good trip if skiing is the point, but iconic trekking paths may be closed or only available to people with alpine gear. When it comes to driving, some mountain passes require chains, and the daylight is short.
How long do you need
New Zealand is a long flight from most places in the world, especially the United States and Europe. Five days is definitely not enough time here. We base the following estimates on vacation allowances in the United States.
Nine days, which is five PTO days spread across two weekends, covers one island properly. Most travelers choose the South Island for a first trip, running Christchurch to Queenstown to Fiordland, or the North Island for geothermal country and the cities.
Sixteen days, or ten PTO days across three weekends, covers both islands. You can either road trip throughout the country or base yourself in Rotorua on the North Island and Queenstown on the South Island to discover the highlights of New Zealand.
This is a country you can drive end to end, but the roads wind around every headland and inlet, and a leg that looks like three hours becomes five once you factor in the stops you will actually want to make.
Getting there
Most international travelers will fly into the Auckland Airport (AKL) with direct flights from Los Angeles, San Francisco, New York, Houston, Honolulu, Dubai, Hong Kong, and Singapore (to name a few).
Christchurch (CHC) and Queenstown (ZQN) also handle international flights, mostly from Australia. If your trip is South Island only, flying into Christchurch and out of Queenstown, or the reverse, saves you a long backtrack.
Crossing the international date line means you lose a day flying west and gain it coming home so make sure to keep track of that in your itinerary.
Budget
New Zealand can be expensive, but the US dollar is often stronger than local currency. A comfortable mid-range trip including accommodation, meals, a rental car, and activities typically runs USD 175 to USD 275 per person per day. The budget can definitely go up from there with luxury accommodations and experiences. Queenstown, being the tourism hub of New Zealand, is more expensive than other destinations around the country.
One cost that could come as a surprise is the rental car or the van. You could do the whole trip without renting a vehicle and only doing excursions but you may miss out on the spontaneous stops along the road that highlight the beauty of the country. Also, make sure to look into the rules of free camping if you want to drive around the islands in a van as not all vehicles are allowed to park and camp freely and camping spots may book up in advance.
Credit cards are widely accepted everywhere and cash is rarely necessary. Tipping is not expected in New Zealand but you may find tip jars at bars or restaurants if you choose to tip.
On the ground
When you're there
Getting around
For the best experience in New Zealand, you need to rent a car. While you can visit a lot of spots with Queenstown and Rotorua as a hub and paying for guided experiences, you will miss out on the beauty of the road and drives between destinations around the two islands. It’s these drives that make New Zealand so amazing because the beauty is concentrated so concentrated between larger destinations.
Driving is on the left, which is the single biggest adjustment for many visitors. Give yourself an easy first drive to adjust to being on the other side of the road and stay out of central Auckland if you can.
Roads are narrow, winding, and often single-lane over bridges. Distances take longer than your GPS estimates. To best take advantage of the scenery, we recommend planning a road trip with at most 3-4 hours of GPS-estimated driving distance on any given day to best enjoy the experience. One-lane bridges have right of way markings. Passing lanes are infrequent and locals will often want to get past you as you enjoy the scenery. While they are typically patient, we recommend using pull outs along the routes to let people pass you throughout the drives.
Between the islands, the Interislander and Bluebridge ferries cross the Cook Strait between Wellington and Picton in around three and a half hours. Verify with your rental company and agreement if your rented vehicle is allowed on the the ferry. If not, you can plan to drop your car in Wellington, cross as a foot passenger, and collect a second car in Picton (or vice versa). Book ahead in summer. The ferry is sometimes canceled due to inclement weather so you may need to adjust your plans accordingly.
Language
English is spoken everywhere. Te Reo Maori is also an official language, and you will encounter it constantly in place names, signage, greetings, and everyday conversation. New Zealand Sign Language is the third official language, recognized in 2006.
Learning to pronounce Maori place names correctly is worth the small effort and is noticed. Most of the letters match the sounds and phonetics of the English language but the combination wh is pronounced like an f.
kia ora
kee OR-a
hello, welcome, thank you – This phrase is a vital part of New Zealand culture and you will see it written everywhere. Your tours will be started with the phrase and you will often be greeted with it as well. It is polite to either initiate conversation or greetings with “Kia ora” or to repeat it back to someone who has said it to you.
Aotearoa
ah-o-tea-a-ROH-a
New Zealand – it originally referred to only the North Island but can be used to refer to the whole country.
Cash, tipping, and international credit cards
New Zealand runs almost entirely on cards. Contactless payment is accepted essentially everywhere, including small cafes, rural gas stations, etc. Tipping is not expected and not customary. Leaving something for exceptional service is welcomed but never assumed. Some restaurants and bars have a cash tip jar at the counter. The one thing worth carrying cash for is honesty boxes, which you will find at rural farm stalls, small museums, and some walking track carparks.
Getting Gas in Rural New Zealand
If you are renting a car or a van in New Zealand, you will inevitably need to refill your car with gas. For those with an international credit card, you will only be able to use gas stations that have tap capabilities at their payment systems. Other payment systems require a local card with a pin and your card will be denied. (Don’t wait until your car is on empty to find a gas station as you may need to visit a few of them to find one that takes international cards in rural areas.) You can also go to stations during their open hours with a teller inside of the station and pay at the counter rather than at the pump. This is only an issue at gas stations and not at other establishments.
Maori culture
Maori culture is a living part of daily life today in New Zealand, present in the language, in official ceremony, in place names, and in the way the country talks about itself. The Treaty of Waitangi, signed in 1840 between the British Crown and Maori chiefs, remains actively contested and is a live political subject. You can learn more about this at museums or Maori experiences in Waitangi, Rotorua and Wellington. The Maori people also continue to recover from the historic repression of Maori language and culture.
Polynesian voyagers reached these islands around 1300 AD, which makes New Zealand one of the last significant landmasses on earth to be settled by people. That recency is part of why the culture remains so intact (and also why the nature in New Zealand is so spectacular).
Rotorua is the best place to engage with Maori culture directly, through guided marae visits, cultural performances, and hangi meals cooked in the ground using geothermal heat. Waitangi in Northland, where the treaty was signed, is the other essential stop.
A note on respect: some sites are tapu, meaning sacred and restricted. Signage will give you appropriate indication and information. Aoraki Mount Cook, among others, holds deep significance, and it is requested not to climb certain summits.
All Articles
All New Zealand travel guides
Auckland, Northland + Coromandel
Auckland, Northland and the Coromandel: A Regional Travel Guide
The first few days of almost every New Zealand trip, and the part most people rush.
Things to Do in Northland, New Zealand (A 4 Day Road Trip Itinerary)
An itinerary discussing the things to do in Northland, New Zealand to take advantage of the landscapes and culture of the overall region.
A 4 Day Auckland Itinerary for a Long Weekend
An Auckland itinerary to best explore the city and the surrounding areas. This is great for a long weekend to dive into local culture.
Things to Do in the Coromandel Peninsula: Beaches, Hiking, and More
A weekend itinerary to explore the various things to do in the Coromandel Peninsula, including some hiking, relaxing on beaches, and taking in the coastline.
Rotorua + Taupo
Rotorua and Taupo: A Guide to New Zealand’s Volcanic Center
The part of New Zealand that feels like it another planet.
The Ultimate Rotorua Itinerary: 3-Days of Culture, Volcanoes and More
A Rotorua itinerary to visit the region, including learning about Māori culture and history, exploring geothermal areas, and visiting Hobbiton.
The Best Activities Taupo Has to Offer for a 3 Day Itinerary
An itinerary to explore the various activities Taupo has to offer, including the Tongariro Crossing, local Māori art, and geothermal areas.
Wellington
Wellington, New Zealand: A Guide to the Capital and the Cook Strait Crossing
Small, steep, windy, and the most concentrated few days on the North Island.
3-Day Wellington Itinerary: A Vibrant Capital City
The breakdown of a Wellington itinerary to explore the capital of New Zealand and learn about the history, culture, and the ecological identity of the country.
Nelson, Marlborough + the West Coast
The Top of the South Island: Nelson, Marlborough and the West Coast
The half of the South Island that most itineraries drive straight past.
Things To Do in Abel Tasman National Park: Day Walks, Kayaking, and More
An itinerary to explore the things to do in Abel Tasman National Park throughout a weekend, by hiking, kayaking, sun bathing, or all three.
The Best West Coast of New Zealand Road Trip
An itinerary of the things to do along the West Coast of New Zealand and how to best enjoy the amazing views of the underrated region.
Queenstown, Wanaka + Canterbury
Queenstown, Wanaka and Canterbury: The Southern Alps Travel Guide
The stretch of country that sold most people on New Zealand in the first place.
Queenstown to Christchurch Road Trip: A Stop by Stop Itinerary
An itinerary of the places to stop on a Queenstown to Christchurch road trip including in Wanaka, Mount Cook, and Lake Tekapo.
A Concise 3 Day Queenstown Itinerary to See All the Highlights
A Queenstown itinerary that highlights the top things to do including the landscapes, adventure activities, opportunities to relax, hikes and more.
Fiordland + Southland
Fiordland and Southland: Milford Sound, Te Anau and the Catlins
The end of the road, and the best reason to keep driving past Queenstown.
Te Anau to Milford Sound: the Best 3 Days in Fiordland National Park
An itinerary to best explore Fiordland National Park from Te Anau to Milford Sound and why you should spend a few days in the national park.
The Catlins: A 1-Day Itinerary to Go Between Dunedin and Invercargill
An itinerary with all the stops between Dunedin and Invercargill to experience the Catlins on the Southern Scenic Route worth checking out.
New Zealand Overviews
Best New Zealand Restaurants by Region: Blueprint Recommendations
We researched hundreds of restaurants over the months that we visited New Zealand. This list is the best New Zealand restaurants to us.
Is New Zealand Safe? Yes, But Consider Some of These Aspects…
Is New Zealand safe to visit? Absolutely, but consider these various things regarding hiking, driving, camping, etc. Read more to find out.
New Zealand Food and Drinks
New Zealand food and drinks that you should try and where to try them while visiting the North and South Island to dive into local culture.
The Best Beaches of New Zealand
A list of some of the best beaches of New Zealand, based on their sand, their isolation, their location, their water, etc. for your next vacation.
The Wine Regions in New Zealand that You Can’t Miss
The wine regions in New Zealand and some different wineries and restaurants worth exploring while visiting the North and South Islands
The South Island vs North Island of New Zealand… Which Is Better?
A breakdown of the South Island vs North Island, New Zealand, their similarities and differences, and the value they add to your vacation.
The Best Thermal Baths and Hot Springs of New Zealand
Thermal baths and hot springs of New Zealand throughout the country, ranging from free locations to luxurious experiences to relax.
The Top Day Hikes of New Zealand
The best day hikes of New Zealand. They are located throughout the country, vary in difficulty and will take you to a variety of landscapes.
The Best Lord of the Rings Filming Locations in New Zealand
Fourteen of the most recognizable Lord of the Rings filming locations around New Zealand, including the background information you need.
Is the North Island of New Zealand Worth Visiting?
The unique aspects of the North Island of New Zealand and the various reasons why you should spend time in this part of the country.
The Top 10 Things to Do in New Zealand
After traveling around the country for 3 months, these are the top 10 things to do in New Zealand. Let this list inspire you for your trip.
First-hand
How we've traveled New Zealand
Greetings from...
